Fleur Feroce
homage to Liz Hurly
homage to Liz Hurly

Changing SeasonsBespoke Clothing or Leather Design ProcessPreparing and Execution...

Bespoke Clothing or Leather Design Process

So you’d like a custom formal dress, or an amazing leather bag, perhaps some clothes for an upcoming trip. What actually happens when you work with us?

PART 1 IS THE DESIGN PHASE. This is also your consultation meeting.  This is where you decide exactly what you want to be created.  What is the function, is there a specific date due by? Custom drafting of item is begun.  We spell out ALL of the details, decide all the parts that are needed, buttons, zippers, grommets, etc.  How will it work? Will it go over the head? Have a zipper or buttons or snaps.  Who is it for? A man, a woman, a child? How will it be put on and taken off?  The the client fitting begins, measurements are CRITICAL and if they change by more than 1/2 an inch before the event that is not the responsibility of the designer.  YOU MUST COMMUNICATE ACCURATELY!

drafting pattern
drafting a custom pattern

What is the purpose of the item?  How will it look? [Bring pictures or sketches of ideas] How will it feel both inside and out? How will it be constructed?  Latex is glued, fabrics are stitched, leather is stitched and glued. The size and materials are determined (zippers, buttons, D-Rings, openings, lacings, grommets, Straps, and any other options.  It must be durable, functional, beautiful or fantastical, safe and doable.  Rough sketches are created to fully visualize how the design will work.  Create design drawing showing construction details, location of zippers, openings, etc.  Submit drawing for client approval.  Revise drawings (if necessary) based on client feedback.

MILESTONE 1 – CLIENT DESIGN APPROVAL

PART 2 IS THE PRE-PRODUCTION PHASE.  This is where we research and determine the cost of all materials needed and includes calls and trips to vendors and sourcing the best cost and most appropriate materials.  This can be be VERY time consuming.  Now we estimate the time to fabricate the item[s] which includes preparation of fabric, pressing, drafting the pattern, cutting out the toile [sample garment], transfer markings, actual construction of sample.  Assess delivery options and costs.  Cost estimate is based on materials, time to fabricate and difficulty.  Cost estimate submitted for client approval.

MILESTONE 2 CLIENT DESIGN AND COST APPROVAL At this point a deposit of 50% is required [consultation fee applied to this]

Materials are ordered at this point (vinyl, leather, thread, hardware, fabrics, boning, zippers, findings, etc.)

PART 3 TOILE, PATTERN, PROTOTYPE PRODUCTION PHASE.

Measurements are retaken to confirm and check for any changes. (The correct undergarments need to be worn for all fittings).  Obtain photos for build /shape and reference.  Edit master pattern as necessary.  Create prototype/toile fit based on new pattern, basically the garment is made twice. 

Have client try toile on (ideally in person).  Make notes and mark orototype for needed revisions if any.  Create a second prototupe if necessary to perfect the pattern, before moving onto final production.  This process is repeated until all issues are solved.

MILESTONE 4 FINALIZED PATTERN  We make a personalized file for each client and include a copy of their pattern and all of the details.  In this way we have a historical record of what works for that client.

PART 4 FINAL FABRICATION/PRODUCTION

Check and mark leather hide for marks or spots to avoid.  Fabric is checked over as well for any imperfections. 

Pattern pieces are laid out and markings transferred.  [Tailors tacks, notches, etc.] Trace and cutout pieces with seam allowances.  Clip sew, glue, press, and top-stitch until item is completed. While working, trim all stray threads, brush the inside and clean/shine outside surfaces if needed.  IF leather, condition, consider weatherproofing, etc. 

MILESTONE – FINISHED PIECE COMPLETED

Many photographs are taken during the process to help update the client and document techniques. At this point remainder of payment is due.

PART 5 PACKAGING AND DELIVERY

Obviously depending on item, obtain appropriate size box.  Wrap using company standards and specific tissue paper, Royal Blue and Gold.  Include Thank You Note.  Enclose packing slip [unless gift] mailing label and care instructions.

Drop off at shipping facility.

MILESTONE CLIENT RECEIVES ITEM

MILESTONE – EVERYTHING FITS PERFECTLY

Confirm delivery and client satisfaction, ask for photos.

So many consumers have become accustomed to the minimized timelines from the runway to the store’s in the fashion industry.  The majority of the items you see from store to store are basically copy and paste.  Designers buy items of interest and then recreate them with 7 points of interest that are changed to avoid getting sued.

Clothes make people..more now than ever.  We don’t always like to admit it, but we are judged by how we present ourselves to society.  If you are a bit overweight or getting on in years, you are basically invisible to the world.  You are noticed when you conform to what is considered beautiful by the current standards of society.  Over half of Instagram posts are about fashion influencers.  We seem to be enthralled with labels and those who are shopping addicts, thus they gravitate to to fast fashion.  The impulse to buy is triggered in a part of the brain that handles the rewards circuit, with the primary factor being the price.  

And we haven’t even started discussing the luxury brands!  The high end brands that for some reason are worth exorbitant amounts of money, far more than the costs of goods and labor, just to say you can afford to carry that brands label.  

garment workers
garment workers
homage to Liz Hurly
homage to Liz Hurly
homage to Liz Hurly

Our hours are by appointment only. Deposits are non-refundable and expected at time of order.  

In addition my service dog the Mighty Thor is in the house.  An active puppy who loves everyone, so be prepared.