homage to Liz Hurly

Bespoke Clothing or Leather Design Process

So you’d like a custom formal dress, or an amazing leather bag, perhaps some clothes for an upcoming trip. What actually happens when you work with us?

PART 1 IS THE DESIGN PHASE. This is also your consultation meeting.  This is where you decide exactly what you want to be created.  What is the function, is there a specific date due by? Custom drafting of item is begun.  We spell out ALL of the details, decide all the parts that are needed, buttons, zippers, grommets, etc.  How will it work? Will it go over the head? Have a zipper or buttons or snaps.  Who is it for? A man, a woman, a child? How will it be put on and taken off?  The the client fitting begins, measurements are CRITICAL and if they change by more than 1/2 an inch before the event that is not the responsibility of the designer.  YOU MUST COMMUNICATE ACCURATELY!

drafting pattern
drafting a custom pattern

What is the purpose of the item?  How will it look? [Bring pictures or sketches of ideas] How will it feel both inside and out? How will it be constructed?  Latex is glued, fabrics are stitched, leather is stitched and glued. The size and materials are determined (zippers, buttons, D-Rings, openings, lacings, grommets, Straps, and any other options.  It must be durable, functional, beautiful or fantastical, safe and doable.  Rough sketches are created to fully visualize how the design will work.  Create design drawing showing construction details, location of zippers, openings, etc.  Submit drawing for client approval.  Revise drawings (if necessary) based on client feedback.


PART 2 IS THE PRE-PRODUCTION PHASE.  This is where we research and determine the cost of all materials needed and includes calls and trips to vendors and sourcing the best cost and most appropriate materials.  This can be be VERY time consuming.  Now we estimate the time to fabricate the item[s] which includes preparation of fabric, pressing, drafting the pattern, cutting out the toile [sample garment], transfer markings, actual construction of sample.  Assess delivery options and costs.  Cost estimate is based on materials, time to fabricate and difficulty.  Cost estimate submitted for client approval.

MILESTONE 2 CLIENT DESIGN AND COST APPROVAL At this point a deposit of 50% is required [consultation fee applied to this]

Materials are ordered at this point (vinyl, leather, thread, hardware, fabrics, boning, zippers, findings, etc.)


Measurements are retaken to confirm and check for any changes. (The correct undergarments need to be worn for all fittings).  Obtain photos for build /shape and reference.  Edit master pattern as necessary.  Create prototype/toile fit based on new pattern, basically the garment is made twice. 

Have client try toile on (ideally in person).  Make notes and mark orototype for needed revisions if any.  Create a second prototupe if necessary to perfect the pattern, before moving onto final production.  This process is repeated until all issues are solved.

MILESTONE 4 FINALIZED PATTERN  We make a personalized file for each client and include a copy of their pattern and all of the details.  In this way we have a historical record of what works for that client.


Check and mark leather hide for marks or spots to avoid.  Fabric is checked over as well for any imperfections. 

Pattern pieces are laid out and markings transferred.  [Tailors tacks, notches, etc.] Trace and cutout pieces with seam allowances.  Clip sew, glue, press, and top-stitch until item is completed. While working, trim all stray threads, brush the inside and clean/shine outside surfaces if needed.  IF leather, condition, consider weatherproofing, etc. 


Many photographs are taken during the process to help update the client and document techniques. At this point remainder of payment is due.


Obviously depending on item, obtain appropriate size box.  Wrap using company standards and specific tissue paper, Royal Blue and Gold.  Include Thank You Note.  Enclose packing slip [unless gift] mailing label and care instructions.

Drop off at shipping facility.



Confirm delivery and client satisfaction, ask for photos.

Bespoke Clothing or Leather Design Process

Our hours are by appointment only. Especially during these days of the plague.  In this way we have sanitized the studio and provided N95K masks.

In addition my service dog the Mighty Thor is in the house.  An active puppy who loves everyone, so be prepared.